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Reviewing the Reviewer Author Profile: Julia GleasonBy Julia Gleason, AND Magazine Columnist
Post Comments | More Julia | Reviewer | Power | FashionWire | Fashion
Reviewing the Reviewer
The high fashion tables have turned.

When I first moved to San Francisco and began my maniacal quest to find work, I found myself resorting to meagerly paying temp jobs where my most challenging daily task was to navigate through a complex matrix of celebrity gossip, online shopping and fashion magazines. During those lengthy periods of absorbing frivolous trash talk and spending more money than I earned, I became acutely aware of the over abundance of hollow assessments on the web; one mean spirited review after the next drifting aimlessly around cyberspace and landing ruthlessly in to homes and offices across the world.

Alexander McQueens Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear collection
Alexander McQueens Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear collection
I’ll never forget the day that I excitedly posted one of my first fashion reviews on a popular writing network only to find my efforts mercilessly and cruelly critiqued in to a bloody, new-writer pulp. The feedback I received wasn’t helpful. It wasn’t constructive. It made me wish I could hurl my metaphorical pen off the Golden Gate Bridge and curl up in to the fetal position. I had been crushed by overzealous critical minds and the hefty weight of fingers slamming on keyboards.

If you’ve ever been on the receiving end of an unfavorable review, you know the feelings that can arise from reading somebody express distaste in whatever it is you’ve put forth, especially if you feel the reviewer was unknowledgeable, prejudiced, and/or generally unfair in their assessment of your work. As an avid follower of all things fashion related, I’ve developed a vast appreciation for all the well rounded, intelligently structured and unbiased reviews out there; writing that tantalizes my creative cranial facets with descriptive phrases, factual overtures, conviction and authenticity.

Most of us are aware that no matter how hard we try, we’ll never win everyone over. Unfortunately, negative feedback is a part of life when the public is concerned. Even the legendary, Donatella Versace, has her adversaries. However, the “bad” reviews left in their paths don’t need to lack quality. A bad review can still be exceptionally good with a little oratorical finesse. We see a lot of reviews today that offer little constructive, specific and truthful commentary and alternatively are seeing a lot of name calling and character assassinations.

Having given a lot of thought around what defines a useful review, I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s impossible to define without disappointing somebody. Writers everywhere will never hold the same opinions about what they consider helpful or even positive. I can only speak for myself and what I know feels right when I read an evaluation that knocks my Juicy Couture socks off.

When I get ready to dig in to a new fashion review I consistently look for a few things. The first and most important is whether or not they explain the collection and/or designer in an honest way, good or bad. If it’s critical, I look for specific examples as to why the writer was not a fan. I’m open and interested in people’s views but (and it’s a big but) if the author writes about what feels like unnecessary trash talking or irrelevant rumors, they run the risk of losing a certain amount of credibility.

Jessica Simpson in her High-Waisted jeans.
Jessica Simpson in her High-Waisted jeans.
When Jessica Simpson wore her infamous, high-wasted jeans heard-round-the-world, it launched a tirade of weight-fueled talk among fashionistas and news outlets everywhere. It seemed that for weeks all anyone could muster up were conversations about how atrocious she looked. People were consumed and as a result, nobody was seizing the opportunity to discuss what she could have done better or even differently to pull off a similar look. I’m going to go out on a limb and say that there are plenty of women (and maybe men?) out there who may have thought the jeans were salvageable with a little TLC.

An article by Kat Giantis on MSN.com titled, “Year in Review: Undressed!” is an example of the type of reviews circulating the internet about Simpson. Giantis writes, “These high-waisted, mega-pocketed abominations are a crime against all pants, and to dismiss them merely as mom jeans would be an insult to outmoded mothers the world over. Simpson's self-sabotaging choice could have something to do with the fact that she's performing at a chili cook-off (admit it you'd just give up, too). But letting your belted denim get overly familiar with your sternum doesn't help anyone.” Giantis’ writing, while humorous, also comes across as judgmental and harsh. It’s clear the writer felt Simpson made a blunder of epic proportions but the reader is left in a negative wake and lacking knowledge of other options.

Along with valuing honest and specific reviews, I tend to set my sights on material that feels balanced and impartial. A review that points out nothing but faults won’t hold my attention. However, a meaty review offering a healthy equilibrium will keep me captivated until the last word. Along with that, no matter what the balance, writing drenched with personal preference isn’t going to offer me an objective view of the designer’s work.

Sarah Mower with Style.com showcased Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear collection with an informative, unbiased and intensely expressive review. Mower notes,” For anyone who had watched his [McQueen] development through the years, the references to milestone collections were apparent. The bandage-bound heads, some with feathered coxcombs, simultaneously called up the designer's rebel-British background and his landmark Asylum collection while also catching a likeness to the modest head coverings seen in Northern European medieval portraiture.“ Regardless of whether or not Mower has an affinity towards bandage-bound heads adorned with feather coxcombs, she gives us a wildly expressive depiction of McQueen’s collection without inserting her own conclusions, leaving us to our own creative verdicts.

There’s a fine line between staying true to your own personal writing style and maintaining journalistic integrity. Witnessing a powerful voice come through in a review is not only attention grabbing but inspirational and how a writer utilizes their voice is a delicate issue between them and their hard drives. Ultimately, the privilege of free speech will afford a myriad of writing styles their own creative outlets. Whether the topic is about Jessica Simpson’s taste in jeans or Alexander McQueen’s bandage-bound heads, there’s something out there for everyone.

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